Monday, July 11, 2005
Down and Out in Tibet
I"ve been in Tibet for 9 days now. Actually, not quite 9 days. We landed in Xinning, China on the 2nd of July and went overland into Tibet. The trip was 2000km over the Kunlun Mountains. It was high and dry, in the alpine desert. the views were beautiful, but it was a long, hard ride.
I'm travelling with a group of Taiwanese and Americans. We are led by a Professor Zheng, who is Taiwan's foremost expert in Tibetan culture. He has organized the trip's itinerary.
On our epic ride, we saw Qinghai lake, which is the largest saltwater lake in China. Unfortunately I don't have the dimensions. Well, actually, I just thought it was just a lake..
We started out at 2200m above sea level, and the first two days, climbed slowly upwards. But then on the day we were to take the Tangalu pass, we travelled for 18 hours, and gained an elevation of 2200m. Putting us, at the time up to 5210m above sea level. At around 4650m, when we stopped for lunch, my head was starting to hurt from the altitude. It was hard to just walk 100 meters. Despite medicine, several of us were feeling effects. After the pass, my mind was starting to reel, and I was about to pass out. The gave me and some others oxygen, which helped, and the bus sped down the mountain. As we descended each 100 meters, I could feel the pain and pressure being relieved.
On Wednesday, July 6th ( which just happened to be the Dalai Lama's 70th birthday) we finally arrived in Lhasa.
For the last few days, we have seen the sights. The incredible Potala palace, the Norbulinka(Summer Palace), and the Johkang temple. I have met a couple of locals, and began practicing a bit of Tibetan which I have been using off the guide book. The one phrase that seems to be the most useful is: "Ha Ka Ma Song" , which means " I don't understand" :)
Two days ago, we left Lhasa for Gyantse. This town has the largest Chorten in Tibet, and contains some of the most incredible Buddhist murals I have ever seen. It was incredible.
We are now in Shigatse, Tibet's second largest city. Today we left at 7am to Sakya to see the Sakya monastery. It is only about 180km away, but given the altitude, and road conditions, it was to take us about 5 hours to get there.
We never made it. About an hour out of Shigatse, our bus broke down. Granted, it was on the road, with snow capped mountains in front, and a wide river and valley next to us, so the view was nice. But we were in the mountains, and pretty much screwed.
About an hour later, with no luck fixing the bus, a taxi drove by and took the driver back into town. Of course that meant it would be at LEAST 2 hours before help arrived. In the end, we were stranded on the road for 6 hours. Two vehicles drove by at different points to take some people back to Shigatse first. The Americans ditched first.
The old men left second.
The third vehicle was a bus, which took the rest of us. Our bus is still out there as far as I know.
Given the terrain here, most vehicles you see are land cruisers, and similar SUVs. they drive fast down the roads. We had two people posted at front and rear of the bus to watch out for vehicles. We signalled them to pass slowly, but they usually honked at us for about 100 meters, and sped by, which shook the rest of the people in the bus. It's therefore quite dangerous.
So far, I haven't seen many foreigners in Tibet. Only one group of young backpackers, but for the most part, older people in their late 30's and up. They all travel with guides and in land cruisers, which cost about $300 CAD/day for rental. Therefore, the travel here is not so cheap either.
Professor Zheng had managed to get us all travelling at very low prices because he knows the area and is connected in a way. Plus, with his knowledge of Tibetan culture, he has been very helpful at the historical and religous sites with his explanations. He says that he will use my photographs for his next book, which I"m excited about too!
Despite today's setback, it was alright. The view was nice, and we had packed lunches and water, and well, if need be, it was only 40km back into town. I"m sure we could have all hitched hiked at least part of the way, if that bus didn't come.
I'm travelling with a group of Taiwanese and Americans. We are led by a Professor Zheng, who is Taiwan's foremost expert in Tibetan culture. He has organized the trip's itinerary.
On our epic ride, we saw Qinghai lake, which is the largest saltwater lake in China. Unfortunately I don't have the dimensions. Well, actually, I just thought it was just a lake..
We started out at 2200m above sea level, and the first two days, climbed slowly upwards. But then on the day we were to take the Tangalu pass, we travelled for 18 hours, and gained an elevation of 2200m. Putting us, at the time up to 5210m above sea level. At around 4650m, when we stopped for lunch, my head was starting to hurt from the altitude. It was hard to just walk 100 meters. Despite medicine, several of us were feeling effects. After the pass, my mind was starting to reel, and I was about to pass out. The gave me and some others oxygen, which helped, and the bus sped down the mountain. As we descended each 100 meters, I could feel the pain and pressure being relieved.
On Wednesday, July 6th ( which just happened to be the Dalai Lama's 70th birthday) we finally arrived in Lhasa.
For the last few days, we have seen the sights. The incredible Potala palace, the Norbulinka(Summer Palace), and the Johkang temple. I have met a couple of locals, and began practicing a bit of Tibetan which I have been using off the guide book. The one phrase that seems to be the most useful is: "Ha Ka Ma Song" , which means " I don't understand" :)
Two days ago, we left Lhasa for Gyantse. This town has the largest Chorten in Tibet, and contains some of the most incredible Buddhist murals I have ever seen. It was incredible.
We are now in Shigatse, Tibet's second largest city. Today we left at 7am to Sakya to see the Sakya monastery. It is only about 180km away, but given the altitude, and road conditions, it was to take us about 5 hours to get there.
We never made it. About an hour out of Shigatse, our bus broke down. Granted, it was on the road, with snow capped mountains in front, and a wide river and valley next to us, so the view was nice. But we were in the mountains, and pretty much screwed.
About an hour later, with no luck fixing the bus, a taxi drove by and took the driver back into town. Of course that meant it would be at LEAST 2 hours before help arrived. In the end, we were stranded on the road for 6 hours. Two vehicles drove by at different points to take some people back to Shigatse first. The Americans ditched first.
The old men left second.
The third vehicle was a bus, which took the rest of us. Our bus is still out there as far as I know.
Given the terrain here, most vehicles you see are land cruisers, and similar SUVs. they drive fast down the roads. We had two people posted at front and rear of the bus to watch out for vehicles. We signalled them to pass slowly, but they usually honked at us for about 100 meters, and sped by, which shook the rest of the people in the bus. It's therefore quite dangerous.
So far, I haven't seen many foreigners in Tibet. Only one group of young backpackers, but for the most part, older people in their late 30's and up. They all travel with guides and in land cruisers, which cost about $300 CAD/day for rental. Therefore, the travel here is not so cheap either.
Professor Zheng had managed to get us all travelling at very low prices because he knows the area and is connected in a way. Plus, with his knowledge of Tibetan culture, he has been very helpful at the historical and religous sites with his explanations. He says that he will use my photographs for his next book, which I"m excited about too!
Despite today's setback, it was alright. The view was nice, and we had packed lunches and water, and well, if need be, it was only 40km back into town. I"m sure we could have all hitched hiked at least part of the way, if that bus didn't come.
# posted by jason @ 12:17 AM 
